Category Archives: Pakistan

A short hop from Ludhiana to Lyallpur

 

Getting into a taxi can often lead to interesting conversations with the drivers. So when one evening I request a Careem (much like Uber around the world), I get into the car and as it happens quite often, the driver is usually baffled by the name (not an obvious Pakistani name) and the person who is sitting in the car (could be Asian but looks “foreign”). I explain that I am indeed Punjabi and use my best Punjabi accent to prove the point! However, the response from the driver is quite often in Urdu, even though I carry on speaking in Punjabi. This will continue or then sometimes the driver will feel comfortable enough to speak in Punjabi.

So then on this one evening, a young driver who turns out to be from Faisalabad (previously known as Lyallpur); he lives not far from Samundri, which is a tehsil of Faisalabad district. Lyallpur district began life in 1904 following the development of the canal colonies in West Punjab in the late nineteenth century. From being a small market town, Lyallpur has been transformed into Pakistan’s main agro-industrial centre following the partition of Punjab. One which has fundamentally changed Lyallpur in modern times is migration. Firstly following the development of these canal colonies and secondly, the migration following Partition in 1947.

Having discovered the driver was from Faisalabad, I choose to converse with him in Punjabi. He was both astonished and ecstatic at the same time. The joy of sharing the same language and accent as you, can sometimes do this to people. He had been in Lahore for some months now and was making a living driving for Careem. The familiar tones of someone, and in this case someone who he thought was a foreigner, speaking the same language that he had perhaps not heard so frequently since he arrived in Lahore immediately allowed us to bond during the short ride. The ride is in fact less than ten minutes, but it is amazing what can be gleaned in these short conversations.

As we discussed our mutual language I suggested to him that the elders in his family might have migrated over from Jullundar or Ludhiana, and he immediately said that yes, his paternal grand-father was from Jullundar. The distance that divide these two places is approximately 250 km. He came over after partition and settled in Lyallpur. I went on the make the connections between the two places, the place where I grew up on the other side of the border, and the place on this side of the border but both conversing in the same language in a neutral city. Perhaps it had never occurred to him that he also had some connection to the Indian side of Punjab via the language that he speaks.

At the end of the ride, his joy at making these small connections translated into him refusing to take any money from me. He said he could not do this. Sometimes life brings about things which cannot be measured in monetary terms, they are passing moments, glimpses of human kindness that leave you feeling richer.

The One-Unit, 1955

one-unit-pakisatnLike the previous post, to commemorate the inauguration of the One-Unit in Pakistan, three postage stamps were issued:

  • 1½-anna, bottle green.
  • 2-anna, dark brown.
  • 12-anna, deep red.

The picture above is a first day cover issued on 7 December 1955, with a 1 ½ anna stamp which I just happened to came across during my stroll at the book fair on The Mall, Lahore which is held on Sundays.

One of the biggest challenges facing Pakistan after independence was maintaining the links between the two wings. This led to wider constitutional issues and so even after eight years of existence Pakistan did not have a constitution; it was still operating on colonial laws. Moreover, the two wings were divided by more a thousand (hostile Indian) miles. This of course would present challenges to the most stable of regimes and this is just a nascent nation trying to carve out a post colonial identity.

To bridge the multiple gaps between the two wings, the Government of Pakistan under Prime Minister Muhammad Ali Bogra, decided that all four of the provinces in West Pakistan should be merged to constitute one-unit against East Pakistan. This would in effect mean that Bengalis, Punjabis, Sindhis, Pathans, Balochis would cease to have their regional identity and adhere to a yet another artificial political construct designed to posit the two wings against each other.

While geographically these two vast areas are split into two units, ethnic, religious and linguistic differences remained despite the political rationalization that was being put forward. Furthermore, while Urdu and Bengali were both accepted as state languages, English, the language of the colonial power and spoken a small minority of people, remained the official language of Pakistan. There was of course inevitably resistance from the four provinces who were being asked to relinquish their regional identity in a direct counter-measure against increased Bengali nationalism.

The uneasy relationship between the linguistic and ethnic differences encapsulated in the two wings of Pakistan created a divide which was difficult to resolve by the time the first general election was held at the end of 1970. In reality the longer-term impact of the one-unit was to create further division rather than bringing coherence and rationalization to the administrative landscape in Pakistan.

The first session of the National Assembly, Dacca, 1956

national-assembly-pakistan

To commemorate the first session at Dacca, East Pakistan, of the National Assembly of Pakistan, three postage stamps were issued on and from the 15th October 1956:—

  • 1½-anna, bottle green
  • 2-anna, dark brown
  • 12-anna, deep red

The picture above is the first day cover with a 1 ½ anna stamp. I just came across it during a stroll at the book fair on The Mall, Lahore which is held on Sundays. The commemorative stamp was issued on the eve of Pakistan becoming the first Islamic Republic in the world. At the time Pakistan was made up of two wings, East Pakistan (now Bangladesh) and West Pakistan. The National Assembly of Pakistan is the lower house of parliament and initially met in the capital Karachi. However, this was the first session of the National Assembly in Dacca and in fact the last time as well because two years later Ayub Khan became the first military dictator in Pakistan and eventually by the 1971, the country was on the brink of splitting up.

The stamp encapsulates the period when Pakistan ended its status as a dominion and was declared an Islamic Republic of Pakistan on 23 March. Hence this is day is celebrated as Republic Day in Pakistan. This of course is also the same day that Mohammad Ali Jinnah adopted the Pakistan Resolution (Lahore Resolution) outlining the two-nation theory. The full text of the 1940 Resolution is available via: http://www.columbia.edu/itc/mealac/pritchett/00islamlinks/txt_jinnah_lahore_1940.html.

The Constituent Assembly became the interim National Assembly with Governor General Iskander Mirza as the first President of Pakistan. The Assembly had 80 members, half each from East Pakistan and West Pakistan. A turning point in Pakistan’s history, the Constitution required the president to be a Muslim and he (typically it was a he), had the power appoint the Prime Minister and he was also empowered with the ability to remove the Prime Minister, if there was a lack of confidence in his abilities. The Constitution of 1956 was written almost ten years after Pakistan was created, but crucially it set in motion a dangerous precedent; the President had the power to suspend fundamental rights in case of an emergency. Crucially though the Constitution of 1956 was short-lived because by 7 October, 1958, General Mirza dissolved the constitution and declared Martial law in Pakistan.

 

Gurdwara Rori Sahib, Eminabad

Gurdwara Rori Sahib is two km from Eminabad and about 55 km north of Lahore. It is located not too far from Gujranwala and the Grand Trunk Road. The Gurdwara marks an important site, where Guru Nanak after the destruction of the town had stayed with Bhai Lalo. The plaque at the gurdwara reads, ‘This is the holy place where Guru Nanak Dev ji came in his first pilgrimage. Guru Nanak dev I came here at Bhai Laalo ji’s home (Eminabad). It was a beautiful and silent place away from city, this’s why Guru Nanak ji sat down here and was prayed the almighty god regularly.’

The gurdwara was originally constructed on a large estate of nine marabbas. This has gradually been reduced down now. The land was originally endowed to the gurdwara during Maharaja Ranjit’s period and the gurdwara’s architecture is also from this period. The location and size of the gurdwara attracted large crowds of Sikhs, particularly during the Vaisakhi festival in April. There used to be a week-long fair during this period and attracted people from all the surrounding areas. The estate left today is a reminder of the old grandeur that would have existed when there was a sizeable Sikh population prior to 1947.

The entrance to Rori Sahib is grand, imposing and awe-inspiring, with the beautiful exposed red brick. The dome work and the columns are all in cut brick work. Accompanying the gurdwara is a large sarovar, which when I revisited the gurdwara ten years later, the water had evaporated.

Below are some of the pictures from when I first visited the gurdwara in 2006 and then most recently in October 2016.

Rori Sahib pictures from 2006.

 

Rori Sahib revisited in 2016.

Eating vegetables in Lahore

Being a vegetarian in Lahore is not easy. It is a city dominated by the carnivorous types. Meat is everywhere; from street vendors to top-end restaurants. The more the meat the merrier. But it’s not just the simple question of the quantity, it is also the status afforded to gosht-meat. Meat consumption is also dominated with the wealthy rather than the poor, who still consume a more balanced diet. Thus there is evidently a distinction between the class of people who eat meat. Having said that during my first visit to HyperStar (one of the largest malls in Pakistan), I noticed how expensive some vegetables were. Especially those which are not locally in demand. Mushrooms were nowhere to be seen and peppers/capsicums were priced exorbitantly. Price will most likely follow demand but why is that some vegetables and lentils are even more expensive than meat, surely this is not right.

This gradual shift of people’s eating habits has hardly been noticed. In countries with high levels of poverty, it is often a question about getting enough to eat rather thinking about over-consumption. But undoubtedly Lahore before 1947 was not so dominated by meat, the diet would have been varied to reflect the multi-cultural nature of the city. Many of the elder inhabitants attest to different eating habits as recently as the 1970s and even the 1980s. The change in what people eat is not just to do with the political and demographic changes brought about by 1947, they are also to do with modern eating habits. Yet interestingly meat consumption in Pakistan has gone up particularly when we compare it to Bangladesh. The main difference between the two is most likely explained by the fact that the Bengali diet has a lot more fish than real “meat”.

The Real Meat http://www.dawn.com/news/1207254

I’m not a vegetarian for any religious reasons, the habit started more out of change in circumstances and then for ideological and pro-animal reasons. These early encounters in my teens have subsequently remained with me. Over recent years I have become more flexible but a few things stand, no red meat and certainly a preference for veggie food whenever possible. Without preaching, I have encouraged my friends to reduce meat consumption, starting with maybe abstaining from meat once a week. There are of course some sound environmental and health benefits to a vegetarian diet.

Eat less meat to avoid dangerous global warming, scientists say https://www.theguardian.com/environment/2016/mar/21/eat-less-meat-vegetarianism-dangerous-global-warming

Can eating less meat help reduce climate change? http://www.bbc.com/news/science-environment-34899066

As I’m living and working in Lahore, food is an important part of my “experience”. So it’s sad to say that while Lahore has embraced gosht-eating so wholeheartedly, it has also forgotten how to cook and handle vegetables. Some households still produce some good basic veggie food, others experiment with more fashionable veggie food, perhaps for health reasons. Overwhelmingly though they are gosht lovers. The kebabs and tandoori chicken might be unparalleled but it has be said that across the border in India, there is much more choice and acceptance of veg food. India perhaps is the only place where the term veg/non-veg is used; it highlights the importance and priority on veggie foods as opposed to it being a side order. India also has one of the lowest rates of meat consumption in the world, though this varies from state to state. The choice and creativity in veg food in India is unparalleled I think.

Mapped: The countries that eat the most meat http://www.telegraph.co.uk/travel/maps-and-graphics/world-according-to-meat-consumption/

Top Meat Consuming Countries In The World http://www.worldatlas.com/articles/top-meat-consuming-countries-in-the-world.html

My solution is let’s make vegetarianism fashionable and cool! The same way that perhaps having meat became so pervasive and a marker of upward mobility, perhaps we can do the same with opting for the healthier veggie option. By making it fashionable perhaps the elite in Lahore can embrace this trend and start spreading some health conscious habits.

 

Guru ka langar

Langar at Gurdwara Pehli Patshahi and small motif from Gurdwara Janam Asthan Sri Guru Ram Das. Both located in Lahore, Pakistan.

Gurdwara Pehli Patshahi is located inside Delhi Darwaza The gurdwara where Guru Ram Das was born is the location of his ancestral house. Both these gurdwaras are relatively good condition compared to others.

Poetry Corner: Lahore

Daal dus khaan shehar lahore e ander
(Tell me, in the city of Lahore)
Bai kinnein boohey tay kinnian barian nein
(How many doors and windows are there?)
Naley Das Khaan aothon dian ittaan
(Tell me also about its bricks.)
Kinnian tuttian tay kinnian saaran nein
(How many are still firm, and how many lie broken?)
Daal dus khaan shehr Lahore e Andar
(Tell me, inside the city of Lahore)
Khooian kinnian mithian tey kinnian khaarian nein
(How many wells have fresh water and how many are ruined with salt?)
Zara soch key dewien jawaab meinoon
(Think carefully before you answer.)
Aothey kinnian viyaeyan tay kinnian kunvarian nein
(How many are married and how many single?)
Daal Dassaan mein shehr lahore e ander
(I will tell you what lies in the city of Lahore.)
Bai lakhaan boohey tay lakhaan e baarian nein
(There are millions of doors and millions of windows.)
Jinnaan Ittaan tay tahar gaey paer aashiq
(The bricks burn in the memory of lovers’ footsteps.)
O heoon Tuttian tay baqi saarian nein
(Only those lie broken.)
Jinnaan Khooian toun paher gaey mashooq paarrien
(Only wells that quench a lover’s thirst)
Jerian behendian apnein naal sajraan dey
(Only those who sit with their lovers)
O heon viyaiyan teh baaqi kunvarian nein

Haji lok makkey nun jandey
(Pilgrims go to Mecca)
Mera ranjha mahi makkah
(My beloved Ranjha is my Mecca.)
Nein main kamli aan
(O! I am crazy)
Nein main kamli aan
(O! I am crazy)

Haji lok makkey nun jandey
(Pilgrims go to Mecca)
Mera ranjha mahi makkah
(My beloved Ranjha is my Mecca.)
Nein main kamli aan
(O! I am crazy)
Nein main kamli aan….
(O! I am crazy)

Ho Kajjal da ki pawana
(What is the use of wearing kohl)
Keh jeda athro wagan rurh jawey
(Which is washed away with streaming tears?)
Kach da key pehnana
(Why wear glass)
Jera Thece Lagey Tutt Jawey
(Which can shatters with a nudge?)
Rung da key Lawaran
(Why bother putting on color)
Keh Jera Boond Pawey Khurr Jawey
(That would melt away with every drop?)
Aashiq Noun Key Maarran
(Why bother killing the lover)
Keh Jera Cheherk Dawey Mur Jawey
(When he would die with the thought of your anger?)
Nein Mein Kamli Aan O!
(I am crazy indeed)
Nein Mein Kamli Aan O!
(I am crazy)

Ho Mein Tan Mung Ranjhan Di Hoean To Ranjha
(I am betrothed)
Mera Babul Dainda e Thaka
(My father pushes me)
Nein Main Kamli Aan
(O! I am crazy)
Nein main Kamli Aan
(O! I am crazy)
Nein Main Kamli
(O! I am crazy)

Jey Rab milda nahatian tohotian
(If God was to be found by bathing)
They milda daddoan machian
(Then fish and frogs would have found Him.)
Jey Rab milda jungle bailey
(If God was to be found by roaming jungles)
Tan milda gaoan wachian
(Then cows and calves would have found Him.)
Jey Rab milda wich maseetee
(If God was to be found in Mosques)
Tan Milda Chaam Charikian
(Then bats would have found Him.)
Bullia Rab aonan nu milda bullia!
(He is only found by those)
Bhai neetaan jinhan dian sachian
(Who are pure at heart.)
Nein Mein Kamli Aan
(O! I am crazy)

Parh Parh main hazaar kitabaan
(Yes, you have read a thousand books)
Kitabaan…
(Books…)
Parh Parh im hazaar kitabaan
(Yes, you have read a thousand books)
Kadee Aprain Aap Noun Perhia Nahein
(But you have never read your own self)
Jaan Jaan Warrdey Mandar Maseetee
(You rush to temples and mosques)
Kadee Mun Aprrain wich Warian Nahein
(But you never tried to enter your own heart)
Aewein Larrnaein Shaitaan Dey Naal Bundia
(All your battles with Satan are lost)
Kadee Nafs Aprrain Naal Larria Nahein
(For you have never tried to fight your own desires)
Aakhay Peer Bulleh Shah
(Saint Bulleh Shah says)
Aakhay Peer Bulleh Shah Aasmaani Pharr naen
(Saint Bulleh Shah says you try to touch the one in the sky)
Aakhay Peer Bulleh Shah Aasmaani Pharr naen
(Saint Bulleh Shah says you try to touch the one in the sky)
Allah…
Nein mein Kamli Aan
(O! I am crazy)
Nein mein Kamli Aan
(O! I am crazy)

Source: http://lyricsdna.com/songs/lyrics/kamlee-hadiqa-kiani-coke-studio-5

Lyrics: Bulleh Shah Singer: Hadiqa Kiani: Coke Studio, 2008