Golgappas/Panipuri

Golgappas have to be one of the most popular street foods in India. For me it’s a ritual, when I go to Ludhiana, I have to have golgappas. It is a simple hollow, fired puri, made with flour or semolina. The flour ones are more crispy and more popular. A small hole is inserted and then filled with any combination of chickpeas, onions, potatoes and then filled with flavoured water. The water is what makes the golgappa; from simple tamarind based pani, the street vendor now has multiple flavours. Sweet, tangy, spicy to appeal to all taste buds. Affordable by all and enjoyed by all, this is the simple attraction that keeps bringing me back to India.

Eating vegetables in Lahore

Being a vegetarian in Lahore is not easy. It is a city dominated by the carnivorous types. Meat is everywhere; from street vendors to top-end restaurants. The more the meat the merrier. But it’s not just the simple question of the quantity, it is also the status afforded to gosht-meat. Meat consumption is also dominated with the wealthy rather than the poor, who still consume a more balanced diet. Thus there is evidently a distinction between the class of people who eat meat. Having said that during my first visit to HyperStar (one of the largest malls in Pakistan), I noticed how expensive some vegetables were. Especially those which are not locally in demand. Mushrooms were nowhere to be seen and peppers/capsicums were priced exorbitantly. Price will most likely follow demand but why is that some vegetables and lentils are even more expensive than meat, surely this is not right.

This gradual shift of people’s eating habits has hardly been noticed. In countries with high levels of poverty, it is often a question about getting enough to eat rather thinking about over-consumption. But undoubtedly Lahore before 1947 was not so dominated by meat, the diet would have been varied to reflect the multi-cultural nature of the city. Many of the elder inhabitants attest to different eating habits as recently as the 1970s and even the 1980s. The change in what people eat is not just to do with the political and demographic changes brought about by 1947, they are also to do with modern eating habits. Yet interestingly meat consumption in Pakistan has gone up particularly when we compare it to Bangladesh. The main difference between the two is most likely explained by the fact that the Bengali diet has a lot more fish than real “meat”.

The Real Meat http://www.dawn.com/news/1207254

I’m not a vegetarian for any religious reasons, the habit started more out of change in circumstances and then for ideological and pro-animal reasons. These early encounters in my teens have subsequently remained with me. Over recent years I have become more flexible but a few things stand, no red meat and certainly a preference for veggie food whenever possible. Without preaching, I have encouraged my friends to reduce meat consumption, starting with maybe abstaining from meat once a week. There are of course some sound environmental and health benefits to a vegetarian diet.

Eat less meat to avoid dangerous global warming, scientists say https://www.theguardian.com/environment/2016/mar/21/eat-less-meat-vegetarianism-dangerous-global-warming

Can eating less meat help reduce climate change? http://www.bbc.com/news/science-environment-34899066

As I’m living and working in Lahore, food is an important part of my “experience”. So it’s sad to say that while Lahore has embraced gosht-eating so wholeheartedly, it has also forgotten how to cook and handle vegetables. Some households still produce some good basic veggie food, others experiment with more fashionable veggie food, perhaps for health reasons. Overwhelmingly though they are gosht lovers. The kebabs and tandoori chicken might be unparalleled but it has be said that across the border in India, there is much more choice and acceptance of veg food. India perhaps is the only place where the term veg/non-veg is used; it highlights the importance and priority on veggie foods as opposed to it being a side order. India also has one of the lowest rates of meat consumption in the world, though this varies from state to state. The choice and creativity in veg food in India is unparalleled I think.

Mapped: The countries that eat the most meat http://www.telegraph.co.uk/travel/maps-and-graphics/world-according-to-meat-consumption/

Top Meat Consuming Countries In The World http://www.worldatlas.com/articles/top-meat-consuming-countries-in-the-world.html

My solution is let’s make vegetarianism fashionable and cool! The same way that perhaps having meat became so pervasive and a marker of upward mobility, perhaps we can do the same with opting for the healthier veggie option. By making it fashionable perhaps the elite in Lahore can embrace this trend and start spreading some health conscious habits.

 

Guru ka langar

Langar at Gurdwara Pehli Patshahi and small motif from Gurdwara Janam Asthan Sri Guru Ram Das. Both located in Lahore, Pakistan.

Gurdwara Pehli Patshahi is located inside Delhi Darwaza The gurdwara where Guru Ram Das was born is the location of his ancestral house. Both these gurdwaras are relatively good condition compared to others.

Poetry Corner: Lahore

Daal dus khaan shehar lahore e ander
(Tell me, in the city of Lahore)
Bai kinnein boohey tay kinnian barian nein
(How many doors and windows are there?)
Naley Das Khaan aothon dian ittaan
(Tell me also about its bricks.)
Kinnian tuttian tay kinnian saaran nein
(How many are still firm, and how many lie broken?)
Daal dus khaan shehr Lahore e Andar
(Tell me, inside the city of Lahore)
Khooian kinnian mithian tey kinnian khaarian nein
(How many wells have fresh water and how many are ruined with salt?)
Zara soch key dewien jawaab meinoon
(Think carefully before you answer.)
Aothey kinnian viyaeyan tay kinnian kunvarian nein
(How many are married and how many single?)
Daal Dassaan mein shehr lahore e ander
(I will tell you what lies in the city of Lahore.)
Bai lakhaan boohey tay lakhaan e baarian nein
(There are millions of doors and millions of windows.)
Jinnaan Ittaan tay tahar gaey paer aashiq
(The bricks burn in the memory of lovers’ footsteps.)
O heoon Tuttian tay baqi saarian nein
(Only those lie broken.)
Jinnaan Khooian toun paher gaey mashooq paarrien
(Only wells that quench a lover’s thirst)
Jerian behendian apnein naal sajraan dey
(Only those who sit with their lovers)
O heon viyaiyan teh baaqi kunvarian nein

Haji lok makkey nun jandey
(Pilgrims go to Mecca)
Mera ranjha mahi makkah
(My beloved Ranjha is my Mecca.)
Nein main kamli aan
(O! I am crazy)
Nein main kamli aan
(O! I am crazy)

Haji lok makkey nun jandey
(Pilgrims go to Mecca)
Mera ranjha mahi makkah
(My beloved Ranjha is my Mecca.)
Nein main kamli aan
(O! I am crazy)
Nein main kamli aan….
(O! I am crazy)

Ho Kajjal da ki pawana
(What is the use of wearing kohl)
Keh jeda athro wagan rurh jawey
(Which is washed away with streaming tears?)
Kach da key pehnana
(Why wear glass)
Jera Thece Lagey Tutt Jawey
(Which can shatters with a nudge?)
Rung da key Lawaran
(Why bother putting on color)
Keh Jera Boond Pawey Khurr Jawey
(That would melt away with every drop?)
Aashiq Noun Key Maarran
(Why bother killing the lover)
Keh Jera Cheherk Dawey Mur Jawey
(When he would die with the thought of your anger?)
Nein Mein Kamli Aan O!
(I am crazy indeed)
Nein Mein Kamli Aan O!
(I am crazy)

Ho Mein Tan Mung Ranjhan Di Hoean To Ranjha
(I am betrothed)
Mera Babul Dainda e Thaka
(My father pushes me)
Nein Main Kamli Aan
(O! I am crazy)
Nein main Kamli Aan
(O! I am crazy)
Nein Main Kamli
(O! I am crazy)

Jey Rab milda nahatian tohotian
(If God was to be found by bathing)
They milda daddoan machian
(Then fish and frogs would have found Him.)
Jey Rab milda jungle bailey
(If God was to be found by roaming jungles)
Tan milda gaoan wachian
(Then cows and calves would have found Him.)
Jey Rab milda wich maseetee
(If God was to be found in Mosques)
Tan Milda Chaam Charikian
(Then bats would have found Him.)
Bullia Rab aonan nu milda bullia!
(He is only found by those)
Bhai neetaan jinhan dian sachian
(Who are pure at heart.)
Nein Mein Kamli Aan
(O! I am crazy)

Parh Parh main hazaar kitabaan
(Yes, you have read a thousand books)
Kitabaan…
(Books…)
Parh Parh im hazaar kitabaan
(Yes, you have read a thousand books)
Kadee Aprain Aap Noun Perhia Nahein
(But you have never read your own self)
Jaan Jaan Warrdey Mandar Maseetee
(You rush to temples and mosques)
Kadee Mun Aprrain wich Warian Nahein
(But you never tried to enter your own heart)
Aewein Larrnaein Shaitaan Dey Naal Bundia
(All your battles with Satan are lost)
Kadee Nafs Aprrain Naal Larria Nahein
(For you have never tried to fight your own desires)
Aakhay Peer Bulleh Shah
(Saint Bulleh Shah says)
Aakhay Peer Bulleh Shah Aasmaani Pharr naen
(Saint Bulleh Shah says you try to touch the one in the sky)
Aakhay Peer Bulleh Shah Aasmaani Pharr naen
(Saint Bulleh Shah says you try to touch the one in the sky)
Allah…
Nein mein Kamli Aan
(O! I am crazy)
Nein mein Kamli Aan
(O! I am crazy)

Source: http://lyricsdna.com/songs/lyrics/kamlee-hadiqa-kiani-coke-studio-5

Lyrics: Bulleh Shah Singer: Hadiqa Kiani: Coke Studio, 2008