Tag Archives: history

The Colours of Vaisakh

Vaisakh is traditionally the month of crop-harvesting in the Punjab region, in both India and Pakistan. Different permutations also exist in the rest of the countries. It is usually around 13th April that farmers around Punjab will start harvesting their crops and so the month is accompanied with many festivities. Harvesting wheat is the traditional crop that has come to symbolise the month of Vaisakh. The festival of Vaisakhi is an ancient tradition of the Punjab region and while it used to be celebrated throughout undivided Punjabi with village melas or fairs, it is now mostly associated with the Sikh community. For the Sikhs, it marks the birth of the Khalsa, when the 10th Guru, Gobind Singh, laid the foundation of the Khalsa Panth and asked for the five Sikhs to be the first that were formally initiated and baptised into the faith in 1699.

Another important historical event that coincided with Vaiskahi was the Jallianwala Bagh massacre. Thousands of people were gathered in the Jallianwala Bagh in Amritsar to celebrate the holiday and festivities of Vaisakhi. However, in the political volatile climate there was also a curfew and so General Dyer and his troops opened fire on the crowd who were effectively trapped in the public garden complex that only had one exit. Officially 379 people died, unofficially it was closer to 1000 casualties. This is often seen as the beginning of the end of the British Empire in India.

While the month of Vaisakh is still culturally significant on both sides of the border, the religious association means that it has lost some of its importance in Pakistan. The pictures above were taken during a trip to Sahiwal where harvesting wheat was in full flow.

The Partition Museum, Amritsar

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The Partition Museum is an attempt to preserve the history and memories of 1947, that saw the creation of India and Pakistan and as a result the partition of Punjab and Bengal. Located in Amritsar the museum deals with mostly the effects of partition on Punjab rather Bengal. It is the initiative of Lady Kishwar Desai and The Arts and Cultural Heritage Trust, along with other organisations. The Partition Museum is in Amritsar’s Town Hall and located in the newly renovated area near Hall Bazaar. The renovation work is a delight in the hustle and bustle of the walled city of Amritsar. The surrounding area all carry remnants from the colonial period and ironically the museum itself is housed in the colonial Town Hall built in the 19th century.

The museum contains mainly pictures, a few artefacts and newspaper clippings from the independence period. It is spread across 3-4 rooms which use multimedia, visual and documentary sources to illustrate and memorialize the Partition. It is therefore a small exhibition and largely provides an overview of what happened.

I wish I could have connected better with the endeavours and intentions of the museum but it left me feeling empty and concerned with the lack of reflection. The museum unfortunately reflects the elite vision with which it was conceptualised. Having spent the last sixteen years working on the history of Partition, I realise that people still need to learn more about this period. But sadly, seventy years on we hardly have any empathy for the collective guilt that we all share in this legacy. The newspapers presented were from the Indian perspective, the horrors of violence were those perpetrated by Muslims against Hindus and Sikhs. Had we been on the other side of the Radcliffe Line, I imagine similar one-sided accounts would be shown of how Muslims were killed at the hands of Hindus and Sikhs. So, when do we move away from this communalized history of partition that still lingers on?

The pictures and voices shared were not of the ordinary people suffering but of prominent people and those who have come to “symbolise” partition history. This is certainly not a people’s history. Even the Tree of Hope presented me with little hope as it was covered in nationalistic and jingoistic slogans written by school children and visitors. Hardly giving secular India hope for the future. Instead the Tree of Hope just reinforces the new powerful and bullish India, unleashed by Modi’s vision.

My main concerns were with the well that has been installed in the museum. It is obviously designed to educate people but what sort of story is it trying to tell us? By simply stating that many women were forced to or rather martyred themselves by jumping into the wells is simplifying a very complex history. Women as the torch bearers of community honour were in some cases (we can hardly guess the numbers) forced to jump into wells by the patriarch of the family or community. Some went willingly but others were more reluctant; afraid of what was expected of them. We can most poignantly see this in the film Kamosh Pani. And so, to show this well in the middle of exhibition represents what exactly? If this was the original location, as in Jallianwala Bagh, it would make sense but to install it for effect is problematic. What kind of history and memory is being preserved by these acts to recreate history selectively? With little intellectual engagement with these selective symbolic fragments from our collective past we can only serve to re-enforce the communalised identities that led to 1947 in the first place.

Visit the website: http://www.partitionmuseum.org/

Shahi Hammam, Lahore

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The Shahi Hammam is also known as the Wazir Khan Hammam. This is a Persian-Style bath, located in the heart of the Walled City of Lahore and close to Delhi Gate. It was built in 1634 and has recently be restored to expose the full glory and extent of the Hammam. It appears to be attracting many tourists and if you find yourself in the Walled City, this place is definitely worth a trip. The restoration work was done by Aga Khan Trust for Culture and the Walled City of Lahore Authority between 2013 and 2015. Funding also came from the Government of Norway.

History and Nostalgia: Pakistan’s “golden era”

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In recent years there have been a number of articles which have explored the visual representation of a so-called “golden-era” of Pakistan. Nadeem F. Paracha[i] has been at the forefront with his attempts to show a Pakistan which many would struggle to recognise today. Just recently there was an article by Ally Adnan in The Friday Times which explored the history of Eid greeting cards via the writer’s own experiences;[ii] a more compelling and detailed account of vintage Eid greeting cards and their origin has been done by Yousuf Saeed.[iii] And then there was a short pictorial essay by Amna Khawar[iv] on vintage travel posters capturing the romantic side of Pakistani tourism. Many of these images relate to the 1950s and 1960s.

As a historian I have been thinking about these articles along with my own research, which has been exploring women’s representation in public spaces in the formative years of Pakistani history, especially the women who worked for PIA. I have been fascinated with the role of nostalgia and how this has been shaping the popular imagination in recent years. The pictures collectively evoke a period that is seen as being more liberal, tolerant of ‘others’, modern, sassy, energetic, optimistic and laced with a sprinkling of the colonial hangover. An early example of this is an ad by PIA from 1960, with the tag line “Move with the times.”[v] PIA was one of the leading brand ambassadors for Pakistan and combined with the emergence of the jet-age there was a growing tourism industry that is virtually non-existent now.

More broadly, and used a source, these images also depict the changes that have taken place in Pakistan and how these are reflected in society. While much has been written about the history of Pakistan, this has largely tended to focus on the political issues, ideological debates, economic concerns or the political leadership. Rarely do we get to glimpse history through the prism of the societal and cultural changes taking place. The ordinary lived experiences of people, especially women, rarely get coverage in the official histories, which are more concerned with the high politics. Yet, if we start to scratch around the pages of old newspapers, magazines, folklore, literature, and personal narratives, there are many untold stories waiting to be explored and unearthed.

So why this fascination now? There are a number of factors converging at the moment which are in many ways compelling commentators and writers to re-visit this history. The political changes and gradual encroachment of religious conservatism in Pakistan makes us want to explore alternative national histories. This is almost a reaction to the current political climate, which has rendered many helpless in their attempt to preserve a more secular and liberal vision of Pakistan, which was seen to be more prevalent in the early years of Pakistani history.

The distortion of history, both intentionally and now as a default position because the effect has been so pervasive, has helped to re-write how we understand and analyse the early history of Pakistan. This has been a gradual process but I would argue something that started especially after the break-up of Pakistan in 1971. The reaction, to the split was an attempt to force greater unity amongst the people and consequently more religiosity was prescribed to keep the nation from further fragmentation. This rather dogmatic approach meant a more exclusive understanding of Pakistani identity which frowned upon anything that deviated from the acceptable norms of the state-view.

The 1970s were also importantly a watershed for Pakistan because a number of factors converge together. The power of the petro-dollars and Saudi Arabia, the state-sponsored Islamisation during the Zia period, the rise of the pan-Islamic identity, the Russian invasion of Afghanistan, American interests in Pakistan, coupled with the break-up of Pakistan at the start of the decade result in a nation that was seeking a new identity. The response was almost an attempt to finally break away from the shackles of imperialism and create a new post-colonial nation. The replacement however, has seen this being replaced by a different form of colonialism, one that relies heavily on Saudi Arabia and ironically a dichotomous relationship with America.

Pakistan has thus undergone vast amount of change during the past forty years. Within all this change, which has been confused and contradictory at times, there is sentimentality and nostalgia for a period that seems so distant. The era of the 1950s and 1960s when, women were optimistic of their role in the nation-building project, and were visible in public spaces; economic prosperity offered hope for the future; a young nation looking and embracing internationalism; and the buoyancy and optimism of independence still reverberating. The reality may have been different but memory is quite subjective and revisionist. But sixty-eight years on, the optimism and expectations have somewhat dampened and have been replaced by cynicism, lack of faith in the state apparatus to deliver the basic needs for its people and an religious-ideological schism which is pulling people apart.

So it is within this context that increasingly there is a re-evaluation of trying to understand that period. It is in a sense a desperate attempt to hang on to a past that will be familiar to many but more radically it offers a space in which a nation is still trying to define itself. These cultural and social spaces are powerful, just as the margins are; so within these confines there is an opportunity to construct and revise a history that has become so distorted. Indeed History is never static; it is continually changing and is shaped by the present. Similarly, memory is equally revisionist and it is the fragility of the present, which compels many to seek answers in the past and contextualise this history in the present. By exploring these alternative spaces and histories of our collective past, we can perhaps better understand and hope for a more compassionate future.

[i] Nadeem F. Paracha, ‘Also Pakistan’, Dawn 9 Feb 2012. http://www.dawn.com/news/694239/also-pakistan-2

[ii] Ally Adnan, ‘I Love Eid Cards’, The Friday Times, 25 July 2014. http://www.thefridaytimes.com/tft/i-love-eid-cards/

[iii] Yousuf Saeed, ‘Cross-cultural Image Exchange in Muslim South Asia’, Tasveer Ghar: A Digital Archive of South Asian Popular Visual Culture.  http://tasveergharindia.net/cmsdesk/essay/117/

[iv] Amna Khawar, ‘Vintage Travel Poster Capture Pakistan’s Romantic Side’, Medium, 14 August 2014. https://medium.com/@amnak/vintage-travel-posters-capture-pakistans-romantic-side-95b5b8090909

[v] The advert appeared in the magazine, Pakistan Quarterly, Spring 1960.

A version of this article appeared in The News on Sunday [link: http://tns.thenews.com.pk/recovering-history-through-nostalgia/#.WJsT7BBpZE5%5D

Gurdwara Panja Sahib

Gurdwara Panja Sahib, Hasan Abdul, Pakistan, 2004. The gurdwara is revered because it has the presence of a rock believed to have the hand print of Guru Nanak.

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Poetry Corner: Lahore

Daal dus khaan shehar lahore e ander
(Tell me, in the city of Lahore)
Bai kinnein boohey tay kinnian barian nein
(How many doors and windows are there?)
Naley Das Khaan aothon dian ittaan
(Tell me also about its bricks.)
Kinnian tuttian tay kinnian saaran nein
(How many are still firm, and how many lie broken?)
Daal dus khaan shehr Lahore e Andar
(Tell me, inside the city of Lahore)
Khooian kinnian mithian tey kinnian khaarian nein
(How many wells have fresh water and how many are ruined with salt?)
Zara soch key dewien jawaab meinoon
(Think carefully before you answer.)
Aothey kinnian viyaeyan tay kinnian kunvarian nein
(How many are married and how many single?)
Daal Dassaan mein shehr lahore e ander
(I will tell you what lies in the city of Lahore.)
Bai lakhaan boohey tay lakhaan e baarian nein
(There are millions of doors and millions of windows.)
Jinnaan Ittaan tay tahar gaey paer aashiq
(The bricks burn in the memory of lovers’ footsteps.)
O heoon Tuttian tay baqi saarian nein
(Only those lie broken.)
Jinnaan Khooian toun paher gaey mashooq paarrien
(Only wells that quench a lover’s thirst)
Jerian behendian apnein naal sajraan dey
(Only those who sit with their lovers)
O heon viyaiyan teh baaqi kunvarian nein

Haji lok makkey nun jandey
(Pilgrims go to Mecca)
Mera ranjha mahi makkah
(My beloved Ranjha is my Mecca.)
Nein main kamli aan
(O! I am crazy)
Nein main kamli aan
(O! I am crazy)

Haji lok makkey nun jandey
(Pilgrims go to Mecca)
Mera ranjha mahi makkah
(My beloved Ranjha is my Mecca.)
Nein main kamli aan
(O! I am crazy)
Nein main kamli aan….
(O! I am crazy)

Ho Kajjal da ki pawana
(What is the use of wearing kohl)
Keh jeda athro wagan rurh jawey
(Which is washed away with streaming tears?)
Kach da key pehnana
(Why wear glass)
Jera Thece Lagey Tutt Jawey
(Which can shatters with a nudge?)
Rung da key Lawaran
(Why bother putting on color)
Keh Jera Boond Pawey Khurr Jawey
(That would melt away with every drop?)
Aashiq Noun Key Maarran
(Why bother killing the lover)
Keh Jera Cheherk Dawey Mur Jawey
(When he would die with the thought of your anger?)
Nein Mein Kamli Aan O!
(I am crazy indeed)
Nein Mein Kamli Aan O!
(I am crazy)

Ho Mein Tan Mung Ranjhan Di Hoean To Ranjha
(I am betrothed)
Mera Babul Dainda e Thaka
(My father pushes me)
Nein Main Kamli Aan
(O! I am crazy)
Nein main Kamli Aan
(O! I am crazy)
Nein Main Kamli
(O! I am crazy)

Jey Rab milda nahatian tohotian
(If God was to be found by bathing)
They milda daddoan machian
(Then fish and frogs would have found Him.)
Jey Rab milda jungle bailey
(If God was to be found by roaming jungles)
Tan milda gaoan wachian
(Then cows and calves would have found Him.)
Jey Rab milda wich maseetee
(If God was to be found in Mosques)
Tan Milda Chaam Charikian
(Then bats would have found Him.)
Bullia Rab aonan nu milda bullia!
(He is only found by those)
Bhai neetaan jinhan dian sachian
(Who are pure at heart.)
Nein Mein Kamli Aan
(O! I am crazy)

Parh Parh main hazaar kitabaan
(Yes, you have read a thousand books)
Kitabaan…
(Books…)
Parh Parh im hazaar kitabaan
(Yes, you have read a thousand books)
Kadee Aprain Aap Noun Perhia Nahein
(But you have never read your own self)
Jaan Jaan Warrdey Mandar Maseetee
(You rush to temples and mosques)
Kadee Mun Aprrain wich Warian Nahein
(But you never tried to enter your own heart)
Aewein Larrnaein Shaitaan Dey Naal Bundia
(All your battles with Satan are lost)
Kadee Nafs Aprrain Naal Larria Nahein
(For you have never tried to fight your own desires)
Aakhay Peer Bulleh Shah
(Saint Bulleh Shah says)
Aakhay Peer Bulleh Shah Aasmaani Pharr naen
(Saint Bulleh Shah says you try to touch the one in the sky)
Aakhay Peer Bulleh Shah Aasmaani Pharr naen
(Saint Bulleh Shah says you try to touch the one in the sky)
Allah…
Nein mein Kamli Aan
(O! I am crazy)
Nein mein Kamli Aan
(O! I am crazy)

Source: http://lyricsdna.com/songs/lyrics/kamlee-hadiqa-kiani-coke-studio-5

Lyrics: Bulleh Shah Singer: Hadiqa Kiani: Coke Studio, 2008